Gurez: The Unexplored Valley of Kashmir

WASEEM AJAZ

Gurez   is a valley located deep in the high Himalayas, about 86 km from Bandipore/Bandipura and 133 km from Srinagar in northern part of Jammu and Kashmir. Gurez was part of ancient Dardistan, stretching from Sharada Peeth in the west, Minimarg in the north, Drass the east, and Baghtor in the south. The Gurez Valley falls along the section of the ancient Silk Route, which connected the Kashmir Valley with Gilgit continuing further to Kashgar.

                      Kishenganga River 🖕

Also called the Neelum River, it originates from Krishansar Lake and making its way through Badoab village runs until it meets the Jhelum River. Construction of a dam on the river is underway which will submerge parts of the Gurez Valley.

The Drive to Gurez from srinager is as beautiful itself 

You are going to pass through some of the most stunning scenery in the entire nation on your six hour-drive to Gurez valley from Srinagar. You are going to be at an elevation of 3,500m when you reach Razdhan Pass. The gorgeous mountains with pine trees are going to be etched in your memory forever. Don't forget to smile when you come across the hilarious road safety posts.

You can stop for Maggi and chai here, like any other mountain destination in India

How different did you think this quaint place will be from the rest of the hill stations in India? Let me tell you, not all that different. Like every other mountain place in the country, you will find a little place selling the popular Maggi and chai combo. It gets better here with fried eggs and Kashmiri roti on offer as well.

You will cross about five military check-points

The permit required for Gurez valley was lifted in 2015 to promote tourism in the area. When you visit this place, you will cross several military check-points as it is very close to the line of control. Soldiers here are on watch all throughout the day and night, and also during the time when the valley is cut-off from the rest of the country due to heavy snowfall in winter. I made sure I gave them a salute, every time I revealed my identity and they let me pass, with a smile as they were happy to see a traveller choosing to visit the place.

You will get a chance to be awed by the magical mountains as you enter the valley

As with every place I travel to, I limited my research to how to get to the place and the permits required and tried to leave space for surprises. I was blown away by the beautiful reservoir on the way, sparkling in the sunlight. I had never witnessed turquoise waters with such a perfect reflection of the mountains. It was absolutely magical. My friend shadaab kaloo told me that the same river goes to Pakistan and is called Neelam there.

As with every place I travel to, I limited my research to how to get to the place and the permits required and tried to leave space for surprises. I was blown away by the beautiful reservoir on the way, sparkling in the sunlight. I had never witnessed turquoise waters with such a perfect reflection of the mountains. It was absolutely magical. 

You will drink a lot of kahwa and share loads of stories with the kindest and most tender people

Be ready to be invited for kahwa, traditional Kashmiri green tea anytime during the day by complete strangers who will make sure you are addicted to it by the time you leave. This valley is known for its warm and hospitable locals, who will go to any extent to make sure you have the best time. In one of those tea drinking sessions, I came to know that the beautiful reservoir I came across earlier was built after relocating several villagers and it still poses a threat to the valley and how they are struggling to preserve their culture and the life they have created for themselves there.

And, finally you will realise that you can never blindly trust what's depicted in the news

The beauty of Kashmir is comparable with none other on earth and the kind people of Kashmir only add to this beauty. I woke up to the sound of morning hymns, greeted people using salam walekum, binged on Kashmiri wazwan like there is no tomorrow, and started thinking about when I would get to visit this paradise again. Moreover, I experienced no turmoil, as news channels show. I saw people going about their daily lives as they would in any other place on a usual day. There is no way you can cherish Kashmir other than celebrating it and letting yourself experience the paradise that it is.

You can stay at the Dak Bungalow with Habba Khaaton and a mighty river for company

There is a tourist rest house where you can stay for the night. I stayed there and it was great. Kishanganga River was flowing right behind the rest house and the Habba Khaaton peak, named after the Kashmiri poetess, was visible as well. The forest around this valley is home to several wildlife species such as the Snow Leopard and Himalayan brown bear. You can try your hand at fishing, go about exploring the valley on foot, or simply take in all the beauty around.

Close to PoK- Angaikoth, Chakhwali, Tulail, Seikhpora, Tarbal, Achoora

Beautiful villages at northern most region of India. They are still so virgin and unexploited by human civilization. These villages remains under snow for more than 6 months in a year. They becomes accessible from mid of June and roads gets blocked from December. The inhabitants store their food for the winter through out the summer season as in winter they can not even step out from their home. One will hardly find any information regarding these places even doing Google search. People mostly speak Shina language rather than Kashmiri. The inhabitants suffer highly from availing basic services like school, colleges, medical facilities, jobs and even with transportation system, but still they are so welcoming with pretty smile on their face when they see any strangers.

1. Angaikoth

A beautiful village with typical wooden houses at the side of the river Kishanganga.

2. Chakhwali

It is one of the last village of Jammu and Kashmir in India. Hardly you will find any population, except Indian army. Indians are allowed to visit the place only if they get permit from Dawar police station.

3. Sardaab 

4. Gundgul shiekh

When to visit Gurez valley ?

The best time to explore the valley is from June to September when the mountains are lush green and the weather is pleasant. The valley is cut-off from the rest of the state during winter, as roads get blocked due to heavy snowfall.